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Warren Brewer reports on one of New Zealand’s largest and most useful trees, the mighty tōtara, good examples of which can be found on Tiritiri Matangi . . . though they still have some growing to do. 

Tōtara (Podocarpus tōtara) occurs throughout New Zealand, extending as far south as Stewart Island. It is one of the giants of lowland forests, growing up to 30m tall with trunks 3m in diameter.

On Tiritiri Matangi we have some mature trees, the largest example being about 10m tall with a basal diameter of 80cm. It is associated with another tree of around 30cm diameter and several saplings 4-6m tall. These trees are in the Bush 1 forest adjacent to the aptly named Tōtara Track. A few saplings and many seedlings occur in other forested areas.

Tōtara is classified as a conifer (meaning cone-bearing). It is dioecious, with male and female cones on separate trees. Male pollen cones (1-2cm long) appear in spring either singly or in clusters and pollen is released as the cones ripen in late spring.

The seed cones in female trees occur singly on a leafless stalk. As a seed matures this basal green stalk swells to form a pale red fleshy receptacle. This makes a reward for visiting birds as they also swallow the attached seed along with the juicy receptacle. Maori also gathered this succulent fruit.

Left image: A noble tree: Elegant saplings in Bush 1
Right image: Typical stringy bark on a mature tōtara also in Bush 1

Tōtara leaves are narrow and pointed, making them prickly to touch. The name tōtara is said to mean ‘prickly’. Tōtara bark is very distinctive, being thick, furrowed and stringy. It can be separated in narrow strips which could be woven into food baskets. It was also used as thatching for dwellings and for making fire.

Māori valued the timber in tōtara trees as it has an attractive reddish-brown straight grain, splits readily and, once dry, its heartwood is very stable. The timber is easily worked, durable and lasts indefinitely in above-ground use. It is also long lasting in saltwater.

Māori used it to build the outer defences and inner dwellings of pā sites and with greenstone and obsidian adzes they shaped ocean going canoes from whole trunks. European settlers used tōtara timber for post and batten fencing, house piles, telegraph poles, sleepers, marine piles, shingles, sashes and doors.

Left image: Succulent: Prickly tōtara leaves flank a cluster of ripening male cones
Right image: A female bright yellow cone is almost ripe enough to eat

The genus Podocarpus has about 82 species of trees and shrubs which are spread through-out the tropics and sub-tropics and further south into temperate regions. New Zealand has four endemic species, one of which, snow tōtara (Podocarpus nivalis), is a prostrate alpine shrub. Podocarpus means foot fruit, referring to the fleshy receptacle supporting the seed. Nivalis means growing at altitude.

The Māori name tōtara is derived from a Proto Oceanic word for spines and many Central Eastern Polynesian languages use it as a name for a porcupine fish (which is called koputotara by Māori). All New Zealand plants bearing the name tōtara have narrow pointed leaves resembling the exterior of a porcupine fish. In New Zealand tōtara refers to a magnificent forest tree with prickly leaves. Patotara is the name of a prickly-leaved prostrate shrub (Leucopogon fraseri).

Metaphorically, tōtara is also used to refer to a noble or highly esteemed person.

Welcome to a volunteer weekend on Tiritiri Matangi.

You’ll arrive by ferry, watching the mainland drift behind you as the island rises out of the sea like something alive. The moment you step onto the track, it’s tūī, korimako, pīwakawaka, hihi — birds everywhere, loud and unbothered. You’ll head up the hill (your bags go by truck) and meet a handful of regular volunteers — warm, relaxed, and ready to hand you a shovel.

The work is real but approachable. You might be wheelbarrowing gravel up a hill to fill a muddy track, pulling up rotting planks from a boardwalk, or checking trap boxes. You’ll take breaks in the sun, eat snacks on the porch, and share tools and stories with people who care deeply about the place. You’ll probably forget you haven’t checked your phone. And yes, you’ll want sturdy shoes, a plug-in insect repellent, and a multi-board — charging space in the bunkhouse is prime real estate.

Evenings are when the island shows off. You’ll grab a torch and head out into the bush. One minute you’re on the track, the next you’re surrounded by tuatara, fungi, and bioluminescence crashing against the wharf. You’ll spot little penguins slipping through the undergrowth. A ruru fledgling may appear, blinking like it’s surprised to see you. And if you’re lucky — ridiculously lucky — you might catch sight of a duvaucel gecko, rare enough that even the long-timers will be buzzing.

You’ll swim. You’ll nap. You’ll eat with the team. You might see a kōkako glide past or hear the chirp of titipounamu while you’re brushing your teeth. You’ll get time to wander, feet aching, heart full.

This isn’t luxury. It’s connection, rhythm, community, and it’s yours if you want it.

So bring your boots. Pack your food (seal it tight), your towel, and your curiosity. Don’t worry if you’ve never volunteered before. Just show up. Tiritiri will take care of the rest.

Pūriri moths are mesmerising. They’re New Zealand’s largest moth, spanning up to 150 cm across their wings. Yet, they remain largely hidden during most of their lives. I’ve only glimpsed a handful, since the adult stage lasts barely 2 days, just enough time to mate and lay eggs.

Recently on the ferry to Tiritiri Matangi, I had one of those golden volunteer conversations that was full of shared wonder and inevitably ending with more questions than answers (which I love). We were chatting about how many trees pūrirī moths use as their host. It turns out, the caterpillars aren’t picky at all. While they take their name from the pūriri tree, their host range spans well over 70 native, naturalised, and cultivated species. Which I have no idea that is was that many. 

Among native species, pūriri moths have been found in pūriri trees, known for their broad canopy and wildlife support and putaputāwētā, a tree so iconic its name refers to wētā inhabiting old pūriri moth burrows. But that’s not all, these adaptable caterpillars also burrow into exotic and cultivated trees such as eucalyptus, English oak, silver birch, and fruit trees like lemon, apple, and cherry, and have even been recorded in small shrubs like Quintinia serrata, Pomaderris apetala, and Griselinia lucida.

During our chat, Jonathan pointed out that while some host trees tolerate the burrowing caterpillars, others react defensively. Within cherry trees, for example, sap floods the tunnel during winter, eventually sealing the hole over the summer 

This wide variety of hosts shows just how versatile and resilient pūrirī moth caterpillars are and that they are able to thrive in diverse habitats from native broadleaf forests to suburban gardens. It’s the kind of fact that sparkles in a ferry‑chat, turning a simple question into a doorway to wonder.

1. What’s your favourite conservation success story from Tiritiri Matangi?
   The unplanned, but very successful, introduction of mātātā. It wasn’t planned, the population was discovered completely by accident, and the Supporters were informed afterwards. I believe the construction company funded the translocation.
2. Which species do you think visitors most often overlook, but are actually really important to the ecosystem here?
   Pōhuehue (Muehlenbeckia) is hugely important. Many people see it as a scrambling mess, but it provides essential habitat for mātātā and reptiles, and it’s the host plant for copper butterflies. It also provides food for a range of species; its flowers and berries are eaten by kākāriki and many others.
3. Can you tell me about a moment that really moved you while guiding here?
   Being told by a very young student that when she grows up, she wants to be a guide on Tiritiri Matangi.
4. How do the birds on Tiritiri Matangi behave differently from those on the mainland?
   They’re less wary of people and more comfortable being on the ground. You’ll notice a greater diversity of forest bird species here, although there are fewer shorebird species compared to mainland ecosystems. And they sing a lot more!
5. What’s a fun or surprising fact most people don’t know about Tiritiri?
   Pūriri moths live in a wide range of tree species, not just in pūriri trees.
6. What inspired you to become a guide/volunteer on Tiritiri, and what do you love most about it?
   I was encouraged by a long-time guide and a ranger from another island. What I love most is sharing this special place.
7. What do you think the biggest challenge for Tiritiri’s future is?
   Sustaining the project with limited funding and the loss of many experienced guides.
8. What would you say to someone thinking about becoming a volunteer here?
   Volunteering here offers a learning curve as steep as you want it to be. You’ll meet people from around the world, many of whom are kindred spirits. A lot of the volunteers have deep expertise in their fields and are generous with their time and knowledge. If you’re thinking about volunteering, go for it!